Sumibi Kappo Mize

Tucked away in a basement just off the Koshu Kaido side of Shinjuku Station, Sumibi Kappo Mize is an easygoing izakaya suited equally to leisurely evening drinks over seafood and a satisfying midday meal. One of the prime draws on evening tables is the bone-in bluefin tuna nakaochi. Brought to the table on the massive central backbone, the meat is scraped directly off the bone with a spoon, delivering the deep savor of glossy red tuna alongside melting fatty bites that pair naturally with a glass of sake or shochu.

Beyond fragrant charcoal-grilled fish and assorted sashimi platters, the kitchen turns out a wide selection of casual fare, from seasonal vegetables steeped in broth to crisp fried ham cutlets, filling the space with the relaxed buzz of an everyday tavern. Generous seating makes it just as accommodating for casual drinks after work as it is for larger group gatherings.

At lunchtime, the room fills with diners ordering generous seafood or tuna rice bowls, alongside daily set meals featuring grilled or simmered fish. Trays pairing grilled fish such as Okhotsk atka mackerel with white or shiso-seasoned yukari rice, miso soup, and a small side of sashimi offer hearty sustenance, available through the weekend as well as weekdays.